I can't spend the money for a new sub which is why I'm trying to pick the best of the local CL deals I've gotten. It could fit the 1500. Buying Advice USBIC F12 vs Dayton Sub-1500 - I am getting confused!! If you're spending that much money you may as well start looking at HSU, SVS, or Rythmik as some of their offerings aren't that much more. The Dayton is a better subwoofer in terms of capability. [–]umdivxKlipsch RF45 Towers, RC-45, RB-45 Surrounds | Dual SVS PB12-NSD 0 points1 point2 points 2 years ago (9 children). Idk.The BIC gets nice and loud and has a bloated midrange, which some people like... but will be boomy to anyone beyond the layman. Now I'm looking at the BIC PL-200 II as well. walls shaking and things falling off the wall unit that it'll be right next to? the Sub 1500 is a much larger cabinet with a much larger woofer. I've narrowed to Dayton Audio SUB-800 and BIC America V-80. Will you prefer it? [–]trireme32X1400H, Philharmonic AAM, OWM3, PB-1000, Panny UB420, 65" Q80T[S] 0 points1 point2 points 2 years ago (10 children). there's that Nixxuz guy that posts here that has the dayton 15 and bic rtr12 which is just like the f12 and he seems to recommend the f12/rtr12 over the Dayton. Constraints: budget <= $150, sub enclosure width < 12.5". Rest of the setup looks great. But the thing is you either need to pick a budget, or buy a real sub. I'm a bass head which is why I'm getting a sub. Sure you can put it anywhere but to get the best sound you might have to rearrange some stuff. (self.hometheater), submitted 2 years ago by trireme32X1400H, Philharmonic AAM, OWM3, PB-1000, Panny UB420, 65" Q80T. i keep my down to around 50% volume, so it's got plenty of power to boot. ok, so I think i'm at just under 3000 cubic feet. [–]umdivxKlipsch RF45 Towers, RC-45, RB-45 Surrounds | Dual SVS PB12-NSD 0 points1 point2 points 2 years ago (20 children). Subwoofers. This is where I'm coming from, and take it however you want, but for me, is if a subwoofer can't playback down to and reproduce 20hz effectively, then it isn't a subwoofer that I'd recommend. [–]ldeas_man 1 point2 points3 points 2 years ago (5 children), if you can provide me with some material that shows I'm wrong, I'll gladly read it. [–]GbMaxSE -1 points0 points1 point 2 years ago* (3 children). That should get you an extension to 25hz solid, with enough output to fill a medium to large room. But $329 is too close to the $419 you can get a PB-1000 for. The Dayton Audio SUB-1200 12" powered subwoofer system is the perfect addition to any home theater system. In my opinion neither, but if you are limited in budget, and can't spend the $$$$ i'd get the one that can play the loudest and lowest between the two. With subwoofers, it is all about the package "as a whole", sum of all parts, meaning great care went into designing the PB-1000, the driver, the tuned enclosure, the amplifier with DSP. Your thought of "this leaves more money for other facets" is sound to point, but are you consider the fact that dayton audio/parts-express is an oe parts supplier and supplies TONS of drivers an amps, and likely has a far lower parts cost overhead than a commercial end-of-line product company like BIC? but again, everything I've learned as a mechanical engineer leads me to believe that a larger driver will, all else being equal, be harder to control than smaller, lighter driver. If you don't care, then sure $200 sub is better than nothing at all, but those who are just don't know or haven't experienced what a good sub can really do, then you'll understand. If looking for purchase advice, please tag your post with your national location at the start. You're making dangerous, sweeping generalizations here. Space is a bit constricted in the room, and it would fit flush against the wall. Get a Bic F12 [http://amzn.to/24ucpMQ] FULL SUBWOOFER BUYING GUIDE!! They will have to sit in storage for now. drywall on the walls and ceiling and its fully carpeted not just rugs. Night and day to what? [–]benwaynet 0 points1 point2 points 2 years ago (5 children). FEATURED PRODUCTS: Quickview. The Dayton Audio SUB … Yes that is the case. 0 points1 point2 points 2 years ago (1 child), For a 20x24 concrete room and a $150 sub you’re high as a fucking kite with your expectations, tbh ¯\(ツ)/¯. both of those material costs increase the total cost, leaving less money to go towards the amp and the magnets. You can get a loud sub, that is cheap but its going to be very large. If you need a sub with a small footprint, I'd recommend The Emotiva S8 great little sub with good specs. The BIC America V1220 has impressive power in the deepest notes but lacked mid-bass punch and didn’t blend as smoothly as the V1020 did with the speakers we used. There are those who don't care and those who don't know what good/true bass is or should be. But NO pictures of boxes. You're ASSUMING the BIC driver has less mass than the Dayton. In the BIC subwoofer line the PL-200 is their top model, then the F12 and finally the H-100. But that is how home audio is. Moderators reserve the right to remove your post at our discretion. [–]ferapy 1 point2 points3 points 2 years ago (1 child), [–]Zergom 0 points1 point2 points 2 years ago* (2 children). Is this a good deal? sealed enclosures provide additional damping, so the designs aren't exactly comparable. Anyone here using Polk S10E as height / Atmos speakers ? A smaller [Diameter] (aka a 10" vs a 12") driver doesn't mean lighter. Control is a function of amplification combined with driver capability, and limits of the tuning/enclosure. I've heard a lot of good things about it, would work great in a room like yours. Go down that road and stuff will almost certainly fall of shelves. maybe not, but it is a fact that if you spend more on one element, you'll have less to spend on the others. and join one of thousands of communities. Will you prefer it? Easiest way to go this route is buy this and then pair it up with a decent amp like an iNuke DSP 1000 in bridge mode, or Yung 500w plate amp. II. I read this article and it seems at least pretty straightforward enough. I. Post pictures of your setup!, even if it isn't finished. conversely, the smaller woofer and cabinet on the BIC F12 means there's more money for the amp and magnet. So comparing the Dayton 1500 and the F12 below 30hz (where the important bass is), the 1500 clearly wins at this game. [–]ldeas_man -1 points0 points1 point 2 years ago (7 children), the BIC has more power and a smaller woofer, so it's going to be a lot tighter and better for dynamic sounds e.g. [–]oxidius 0 points1 point2 points 2 years ago (6 children). The BIC also has a higher quality of fit and finish than the Dayton, because they spent more money on aesthetics. [–]trireme32X1400H, Philharmonic AAM, OWM3, PB-1000, Panny UB420, 65" Q80T[S] 0 points1 point2 points 2 years ago (12 children). You may also piss off and/or impress your neighbors. Don't listen to him. If we put it 2ft away we'll get a cancellation centered around ~70Hz... not good. DIY solutions is really the only thing that is going to get even remotely close to having good, low, loud, flat bass and be near the price of the F12/Dayton solutions. include your Max price point for purchase advice, If you want to show off your new or existing set up use something like. Using it for movies and games. The Bic America F12, the Dayton series, the Monoprice 12"...none of these are commonly available. Medium size room 19x16x7, paired with pioneer bs22 and c22. Yikes. yes and I saw them. I think you might be shadowbanned. Yes, there are many 10" subs that outperform many 12's. I was in your position 6 months ago. Use of this site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy. [–]umdivxKlipsch RF45 Towers, RC-45, RB-45 Surrounds | Dual SVS PB12-NSD 0 points1 point2 points 2 years ago (18 children). Don't spend $280 on it if you settle on that, just wait a week. The subs are very comparably priced, and the SUB-1500 is definitely bigger, AND has a bigger driver. I'd put money on the fact that you're an engineer. 2. 13 Posts . What do you use for LCR and surrounds? I have the Dayton Sub-120 and the BIC V1020 currently and am looking to keep just one. you need to understand that subwoofers are a sum of their parts and their designs, and there are few rock-solid absolutes. VI. I purchased a pair of FH-6T's along with the FH6-LCR and the BIC F 12 subwoofer. Turn it down if the wife whines. IV. my room is about 12 x 20 and it easily fills the room with good sound for music and movies. 1 point2 points3 points 2 years ago (9 children), SVS PB-1000. Sub: BIC F12 or Dayton Sub-1500. And unfortunately, $450 is when things really get awesome. Parts express/dayton subs are often recommended because they outperform their price segments. They can be removed at our discretion for any reason including but not limited to Off Topic posting & Misinformation. Neither the 12" dayton nor the sub-1500 will meet those expectations. [–]trireme32X1400H, Philharmonic AAM, OWM3, PB-1000, Panny UB420, 65" Q80T[S] 0 points1 point2 points 2 years ago (2 children). Sub recommendations needed. Also that really depends on if your space has doors to close it off, if its open to the rest of your house or other areas of your house you'd also need to take into account that space to really figure out the total volume that you're trying to pressurize to get the tactical feel of the subwoofer. Idk.The BIC gets nice and loud and has a bloated midrange, which some people like... but will be boomy to anyone beyond the layman. [–]umdivxKlipsch RF45 Towers, RC-45, RB-45 Surrounds | Dual SVS PB12-NSD 0 points1 point2 points 2 years ago (0 children). my understanding of mechanics leads me to believe that a smaller (and lighter) woofer with more power controlling it will lead to better response, as there's less moving mass and a stronger magnetic field. Oh, I completely understand. Look at my comment in this thread where i provided ACTUAL measurement/response graphs/tables of the two subs in question. I know I'm going to regret asking this, but - what sub would you recommend for $450? While I do understand that you would have to pull the F12 off the wall you would still have to pull the 1500 off a bit for the power and uplink cable. A smaller driver doesn't mean lighter. Will I need a Y RCA connector and send both RCA lines from each sub … Yes it is definitely a big space. But then I was told that, while the 1500 is larger, the F12 is much better built and would therefore have longer reach and better sound. [–]GbMaxSEI'm not a Moderator, promise. Search should be used as your query has probably come up before. Thank you, I assume that is where a $500+ sub can handle the job? [–]benwaynet 0 points1 point2 points 2 years ago (3 children). Use of this site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy. BIC F12 Frequency Response Thread, [–]TactFully 3 points4 points5 points 2 years ago (1 child), ... except 1 note, the distance-to-wall thing is a myth; only a few inches are needed for the air to escape. Looking for the absolute best for between $600-$800 Seen offerings from SVS that get down to 16hz hsu 16hz and the big Dayton 18” 18hz All would end up between about $100 of eachother from personal experience which of the 3 is the best go to … NFC Automation to the rescue! I AM speaking in facts, where you're just taking a quote from SVS and running with it. really...maybe I'll have to swap up to the 1500. [–]trireme32X1400H, Philharmonic AAM, OWM3, PB-1000, Panny UB420, 65" Q80T[S] 0 points1 point2 points 2 years ago (0 children), [–]umdivxKlipsch RF45 Towers, RC-45, RB-45 Surrounds | Dual SVS PB12-NSD 0 points1 point2 points 2 years ago (6 children). 1) different circumstances. The PB outperforms the SB in most facets aside from overhang and response time. [–]tyr-- 1 point2 points3 points 2 years ago (0 children). It is the general consensus of r/hometheater not to recommend these things and instead simply steer a user toward a 2.0 or 2.1 system made of quality, Audio-Centric name brand components which are easy to assemble and cheap enough for low budget or space conscious buyers. Atmos heights: OWM3's mounted to ceiling (the couch is very close to the back wall so I've decided to go with that instead of rear surrounds. obviously it's more complex than X is better than Y in all circumstances. The allure here is the six-inch body that can be put vertically or horizontally, allowing it to hide from sight more simply than its cubed cousins who can be floor-space hogs. i have the f12 and i love it. I tried a friends onkyo sub from a HTIB and another friends polk sub (don't know the model) neither seem to make a difference. I dread having to list all of my old system components for sale on craigslist. A newbies suggested product list. and less weight means lower moment of inertia, making it easier to start/stop, which in turn results in better control. VII. I don't even think the sub1500 can compare. I always just make the assumption that more than a foot is safe. I've reviewed the PL-200 and H-100 but not the F12. The bic f12 seemed like an improvement over what I used to have and the reviews said great for the price. There are those who don't care and those who don't know what good/true bass is or should be. but again, if you can provide some information on the contrary, I'd love to see it, [–]umdivx 2 points3 points4 points 2 years ago (0 children), .... It’s even possible for a subwoofer with a 10- or 12-inch driver to outperform a subwoofer with a larger driver if the motor magnets in the smaller subwoofer can generate greater force and exert better control over the driver.". You'll be out around ~$600, so triple the price of the BIC F12 or the SUB-1500. I've also heard good things about Bic F12s but haven't heard them myself. You don't know what you're talking about. Get an ad-free experience with special benefits, and directly support Reddit. The Bic F12 is available on Amazon for $300CAD, but it ships from the USA so I'm scared of being slammed with a crazy duty charge when it arrives at my door. What's your budget? One has a better driver and enclosure and amp, the other is the BIC F12. ). [–]trireme32X1400H, Philharmonic AAM, OWM3, PB-1000, Panny UB420, 65" Q80T[S] 0 points1 point2 points 2 years ago (17 children). you can't compare something that is inherently limited/boosted by room acoustics in completely different settings. It's a big box. One sub or two? You can get a loud sub, in a small footprint but it's going to be expensive. [–]ldeas_man -1 points0 points1 point 2 years ago* (2 children). http://averagejoeaudiophile.blogspot.com/, Dayton Sub-1500 Frequency Response thread (without Graph, sadly). The chart below shows the CEA-2010 results for our top picks and a few other subs we tested (including the Dayton Audio SUB-1200, the top pick from our best budget subwoofer guide). Given the size of your room as I said earlier. If someone is being helpful and you agree with their advice, then Upvote it. Sent from my SM-G360T1 using Tapatalk Get an ad-free experience with special benefits, and directly support Reddit. The sealed design affords it a much smaller enclosure. My question to you guys is, should I invest 40€ more on the Dayton Audio or is the GRS a good subwoofer? I've been told my expectations maybe too high. 1 point2 points3 points 2 years ago (11 children). [–]trireme32X1400H, Philharmonic AAM, OWM3, PB-1000, Panny UB420, 65" Q80T[S] -1 points0 points1 point 2 years ago (14 children), [–]GbMaxSEI'm not a Moderator, promise. [–]trireme32X1400H, Philharmonic AAM, OWM3, PB-1000, Panny UB420, 65" Q80T[S] 0 points1 point2 points 2 years ago (5 children). For Amazon Links - ideally Amazon links are in the format www.amazon.com/dp/B00VRRVHMA/ - all the extra stuff after those 10 characters are not necessary. post to, If you are looking for advice on sound bars please post to, Feel free to post links to sales and good deals. Get the 1500. Or, they simply found a way to build a super arse kicking 12' powered sub, for an incredible price. I.e. First 5.1 complete! Also, I'm not sure what the connection options are on the BICs? You don't know that it does. Buying a sub in Canada is brutal. More power and a smaller woofer really does not mean that it will be a "lot tighter" OR "better for dynamic sounds" by default, at all. For a large 18x18 room, with a MLP that's 15' away from the TV, can't do towers, I have the following build ready - going for ~$1000: I had the F12 picked initially but then was told that since the 1500 is much larger, it should fill the room better. Things aren't gonna fall off. This also includes YouTube links allowed at Mod Discretion (Rtings & HDTVTEST are allowed). No Deals, Spam, Self Promotion, or Referral Links/Link Shortening (This includes Amazon Smile). [–]umdivxKlipsch RF45 Towers, RC-45, RB-45 Surrounds | Dual SVS PB12-NSD 1 point2 points3 points 2 years ago (2 children). They always help. you're saying that the smaller PB-1000 outperforms the larger SB-1000? I would say that if you're space challenged then the 1500 wouldn't be the best choice. I should note that I'm upgrading from the crappy Sony N7200W HTIB, and the small crappy sub that's there now does a decent job in my opinion. well that is just the start, for the size of room that you have you'd need to get a sub that has slightly more output/extension to truly "feel" it. and join one of thousands of communities. [–]trireme32X1400H, Philharmonic AAM, OWM3, PB-1000, Panny UB420, 65" Q80T[S] 0 points1 point2 points 2 years ago (1 child). [–]GbMaxSE 0 points1 point2 points 2 years ago* (2 children). Its in the basement so its on carpet,pad, then cement and I don't feel like the dayton is filling the room or making me feel like I'm in the movie during an explosion or a ship goes by. The Polk PSW505 is pretty good for around $250. > not necessarily poorly designed, rather different costs. This results in low frequency output that can sound smeared, boomy or bloated and detract from the convincingness of an audio experience.... It’s even possible for a subwoofer with a 10- or 12-inch driver to outperform a subwoofer with a larger driver if the motor magnets in the smaller subwoofer can generate greater force and exert better control over the driver." I'm not too familiar with this brand other than that it's a "high end" product. Hifi music playback is the priority, all genres. Wasn't going to respond to this at first but I've had some thoughts around this. [–]shakuyi 3 points4 points5 points 2 years ago (0 children). I have the F12, and for the price couldn't be happier. Note all of the above I just said is soley based off of the measure frequency response and output, which if you knew how to read that and understood it, you'd realize that the Dayton 1500 was clearly a better subwoofer and your myth around smaller driver and more amplifier is completely wrong and all you're doing is spreading misinformation. edit: if you can provide a source that shows that I'm wrong (in general. I'm of the opinion here that you may be viewing things a bit too in the black-and-white. Formula Theater Series speakers 11 items. In fact subs should generally be placed close to boundaries to avoid cancellation from the reflected wave against said boundary, http://www.mh-audio.nl/CancellationFreq.asp. Posted by 27 days ago. It’s pretty similar to the f12. specifically these lines: "Poorly designed big subwoofer drivers with inadequate motors don’t produce accurate bass and struggle to start and stop on a dime. I have an SVS PB-2000, and have bass that I can feel and hear, but that's approaching $800. I'm talking about size in general. use the following search parameters to narrow your results: Check The F.A.Q. When I eventually finish off my basement I too will be in the market for a subwoofer upgrade as I will have nearly 2500 cubic feet of space to fill. The H-100II is relatively small for a ported sub, measuring just 17.25"x14.75"x17.75" (HWD). Actually the driver has to be that close (since the port has no contribution that high in frequency) which is not even possible with many subs unless they're turned sideways! Amazon, Newegg, Slickdeals, Woot etc. That all depends on your technical ability and access to proper tools (table saw makes life much easier), and if you have a shop space large enough to work on this. Edit: it's smaller and gets lower than the Dayton 1000, gets almost as low and has more rms power than the 1200. Thanks! I’d probably go for the SUB-1500. Everyone has a different opinion!! I have multiple issues with those, however. Agree as well, you need something big enough to push the air to the other side of the room, I have a similar sized room with a Dayton 1500 and it is perfect! [–]LouGossetJr -1 points0 points1 point 2 years ago (0 children). And literally NO sub purchased new will get you there for less than $450. I actually would have bought the RW-12d if they still had the under $300 sale. You literally just proved my point: RE- generalizations. IMO there is no wrong choice between the two models. Would you be able to recommend parts that would meet my needs (no bigger than the Sub-1500 - 19.75 x 19.5 x 19.75, and for $200)? While there are some great budget options out there in the US, those options are not always available for the same prices else ware. Dayton Audio SUB-1000L via daytonaudio.com. J-Tech Digital 4K 60HZ HDMI Audio Extractor Problem, HT-R695 | 55R617 | SX6 | VTF-2 MK5 | 2015 Shield | TS-451+, X1400H, Philharmonic AAM, OWM3, PB-1000, Panny UB420, 65" Q80T, Klipsch RF45 Towers, RC-45, RB-45 Surrounds | Dual SVS PB12-NSD, LGOLED65C7,Denon4400,B&W683S2,HTM61S2,SVSPB16,Oppo203,XboxOneX. It will be night and day. Now would that cause me to get in trouble with the wife? Even at it's best the f12 doesn't get above 100dB of output, where as the Dayton 1500 at 30hz down to 23hz stays flat and plays up to 106db of output. Dayton Audio Sub-1200 vs. BIC America F12 Has anyone here actually spent time listening to both? From those evals I can speculate about the F12. [–]benwaynet 0 points1 point2 points 2 years ago (0 children). $419+free shipping new but open box from IQ HOME ENTERTAINMENT on Amazon :), [–]trireme32X1400H, Philharmonic AAM, OWM3, PB-1000, Panny UB420, 65" Q80T[S] 0 points1 point2 points 2 years ago (8 children). I know it might be a bit of a gimmick right now but I really want to try it. [–]GbMaxSE 1 point2 points3 points 2 years ago* (0 children). The speakers are driven by a Yamaha RX-V573, Input devices range from my Xbox One to my my PC through HDMI out; Any issues with things falling off walls or shelves? If someone is being insulting or rude or spamming. If you just really want a super cheap computer solution (Creative Labs, Altec Lansing, etc.) The reason the F12 gets so much praise is that is "sounds" loud, because is has a big boost in output around 35 - 40hz, but once it gets below 35hz it starts to fall off dramatically. [–]GbMaxSEI'm not a Moderator, promise. But it's a huge room. Most can be expanded to 5.1 if you buy the correct items in the correct order. Edit: Sources - Yeah I really don't have more than ~$200 available for the sub, and this is our living room not a dedicated HT, so I really don't want the walls and stuff to shake.... [–]GbMaxSEI'm not a Moderator, promise. Just completed this set-up! Gaming in surround is AMAZING. Hahahaha $198 to $250 to $400 lol!! The Dayton is a better subwoofer in terms of capability. The basement has a door at the top of the steps so it is closed off in that sense. That little sub, 10" driver, can play down to 19hz and do so with authority. 99.9% of the time Soundbars or HTiB (Home Theater in a Box) systems are not a good investment of your time and money. Does it get good, nice bass, without being too boomy? BIC F12 vs Dayton Sub-1500 - I am getting confused!! mine is close to a wall on one side, but the ported rear is about 2-3ft from the wall. All the interesting things happen in movies below 30hz. I'm looking at that now as well. First off this is a hobby, this isn't something that is life or death, isn't a must have item. Frequency response graphs are literally all that matter. Messaging Mods via their private inbox not via mod mail will result in a ban and your messages ignored. Sony PS-T15, Technics SU-V560 with Dali Spektor 2. You need to look at the total dB (volume) output across the frequency range as well as total extension of the subwoofer. I don't want stuff to be falling off of shelves or anything, now...... [–]umdivxKlipsch RF45 Towers, RC-45, RB-45 Surrounds | Dual SVS PB12-NSD 0 points1 point2 points 2 years ago (4 children). Given that they're practically the same price, can you help me figure out the pros and cons of each? No META [Suggestions] Posts, please message the moderators through Modmail Instead. I vote for the BIC F12 over the Dayton 1500. [–]GbMaxSE 0 points1 point2 points 2 years ago (0 children), Good to know and a great article! I've heard both these subwoofers, and describing an F12 as tight and dynamic is just.. wrong. [–]give_this_dog_a_boneLGOLED65C7,Denon4400,B&W683S2,HTM61S2,SVSPB16,Oppo203,XboxOneX 0 points1 point2 points 2 years ago (1 child). [–]Sharpymarkr 0 points1 point2 points 2 years ago (1 child). When requesting help for issues POST DETAILS, MODELS, & PICS. I'm not going to post anything that will speak contrary to what SVS is saying... what they posted is entirely accurate. The 1500 will go a bit lower and fill a room a bit better. not about this specific comparison) I'll gladly concede that I'm wrong. [–]trireme32X1400H, Philharmonic AAM, OWM3, PB-1000, Panny UB420, 65" Q80T[S] 2 points3 points4 points 2 years ago (1 child). NO AFFILIATE LINKS, but if you find a great deal on something and want to share use. Size:The Dayton is a near-20" cube.The BIC is 15x17x18.25 BIC America F12 vs Dayton Sub-1200. For what its worth, I just purchased the 12 inch Dayton, my room is L shaped and around 20X24 with the corner cut out. Let us also consider a much more linear comparison. Sources include .flac and 320K stream (MOG/Beats/Spotify). I spenta little extra and bought the Bic PL-200 II and it is a monstrosity. A PB1000 vs an SB1000. Under 300 I'd recommend either a Dayton sub 1500 or a couple sub 1200s. The Dayton is pretty boomy and the way you describe the PA-120 sounds very similar to the V1020. Either BIC America sold their soul to the devil. Shit will vibrate for sure. Pros of the F12: smaller, more articulate then the Dayton, Pros of the Dayton: bigger in size, so it could be better in filling your room and it reaches a bit lower in frequency. Goal here for a good subwoofer is to get as close to and blow 20hz, effectively, with authority and doing so with very little variation in the frequency curve. REDDIT and the ALIEN Logo are registered trademarks of reddit inc. π Rendered by PID 11739 on r2-app-02c289efde5a69818 at 2021-02-17 12:11:56.837711+00:00 running 7673918 country code: US. And just FYI - I can see your comments in my inbox, but not in the thread itself. For further explanation please read Why You Shouldn't Buy a Soundbar. BIC Venturi Series speakers 26 items. BIC Acoustech H-100II By Jim Wilson (theJman) Introduction The subject of this review is the BIC Acoustech Cinema Series H-100II, a 12" bass reflex subwoofer. You're making the assumptions that the Sub-1500 is more poorly designed in driver and enclosure than the Bic F-12. V. No posting about TV Calibration/Settings. Sure a 2000$sub would sound and feel better... but everyone has a budget. A bar sub is a strange choice, since it goes against the downward striking, hard-hitting, head-banging nature of most subwoofers. The PB outperforms the SB in most facets aside from overhang and response time. I had the F12 picked initially but then was told that since the 1500 is much larger, it should fill the room better. This is fair, but it's the best I could do. 6 people found this helpful. What I'm simply trying to convey is that there is a reason subwoofers cost what they do and capable of what they can do. Either will be fine. Since I live in Europe, the shipping costs and taxes and expensive so the GRS is 50€ and the Dayton Audio is 85-90€. Just because a driver is bigger in diameter (a 15" vs a 12"), it doesn't mean that its heavier and has more mass. The BIC sub is $210 and the Dayton sub is $150. The response graph for an F12 is MOUNTAINOUS, and extraordinarily bloated in the midrange. How do I tell if I'm approaching "hi-fi" sound? While there is no upper price limit, realistically we focus on speakers in the sub $1000 range, with the sweet spot being between $150 to $500. But then I was told that, while the 1500 is larger, the F12 is much better built and would therefore have longer reach and better sound. I want to upgrade my sub, which of these 2 options would you recommend? However if you're limiting your enclosure footprint size wise, then I don't think that will be possible. Student loan has really paid off haha, Headphones, Earphones, and laptop deals on President Day Sale 2021, Bookshelf speakers don't go on a bookshelf. You're clearly a very smart guy, likely an engineer, and it's clear to me you understand physics and mechanics, but you just don't necessarily have much experience. [–]trireme32X1400H, Philharmonic AAM, OWM3, PB-1000, Panny UB420, 65" Q80T[S] 0 points1 point2 points 2 years ago (4 children). music/games. Can't speak for any other brands. Again, so black and white. not necessarily poorly designed, rather different costs. Call me dogmatic all you want, it's not going to hurt my feelings. [–]oxidius 0 points1 point2 points 2 years ago (1 child). Yes over his current setup, either Subwoofer would be better than his HTIAB sub yes absolutely. a woofer is just a mass-spring-damper system, and mass is a huge factor in how that system responds. Is building a DIY sub difficult or complicated? The BIC PL-200 and NXG NX-BAS-500 are a better for a little more. This is a subreddit for all budget minded audiophiles and enthusiasts looking to grow into real speakers and separate components; and out of boomboxes, mini systems, portable bluetooth and lifestyle speakers, and PC branded audio solutions.
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